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When compiling a list of London’s top restaurants, one might foresee well-known Michelin-starred names. But, situated prominently among these culinary heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu located in a outlying area of northern London.

A Surprise Honour

This compact Turkish restaurant, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the 4th top restaurant in the city by a prominent gastronomic guide. This recognition has left the proprietors completely shocked.

“I am utterly astonished,” says a proprietor, referring to his parents’ dedication that culminated in their small shop earning such a high spot on a respected 99-strong list.

A Character of Simplicity

This compact space, which used to be a simple cafe before its change into a popular destination, has maintained much of its earlier character. It fits just over 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking performance, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy place,” says the owner.

The Star Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all down to the food, and this establishment definitely succeeds. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a succulent texture.

The meat is then added into a large pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. When the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to soak in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is rolled tightly inside.

It is often eaten with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a mighty punch of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A respected food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe is a treat. It is soaked in less syrup than usual, imparting it a deeper, nuttier and less sickly flavour.

Surpassing the Titans

Remarkably, this modest spot has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant full for less than £25, similar tasting menus at luxury establishments can cost significantly more than that price.

A Philosophy of Warmth

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an costly city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I do not believe in that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This philosophy is echoed by the list’s editor, who stated that if he was in a position of authority, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London visit this spot as a masterclass, to teach them the dangers of overthinking, and to show what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Path of Dedication

Unlike many chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t apprentice at elite establishments. “I am very pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum would be very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a life outside work but her friends would support her to help her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

An Achievement for the Community

This restaurant’s success is set to resonate beyond its own premises. “I think numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the greater importance of this culinary triumph.